Sandpaper Grits: What to Use and When

Sandpaper grits look like they were invented by someone who hates beginners. 60, 80, 120, 220, 400, 2000. It feels random until you understand one simple idea: higher number = finer abrasive = shallower scratches. Your goal is to use the coarsest grit that does the job quickly, then step up in grit to erase the previous scratches.

This guide breaks down grit numbers, paper types, abrasive materials, and the best real-world uses for wood, metal, and drywall so you can get that smooth, pro-looking finish without sanding your life away.

Quick note before we dive in: grit labels are not perfectly universal. In the U.S. you will often see ANSI/CAMI numbers like 220. In many other places you will see FEPA “P” grits like P220. They are close, but not always identical, and ultra-fine microfinishing films can be their own thing. If your “220” and your buddy’s “P220” don’t feel exactly the same, you are not losing your mind.

Sandpaper grit numbers, explained

Sandpaper grit is a measure of abrasive particle size. Lower numbers mean bigger, more aggressive particles. Higher numbers mean smaller particles that refine the surface.

• Lower grit (40 to 80): fast material removal, heavy scratches
• Medium grit (100 to 150): smoothing and shaping, removes coarse scratches
• Fine grit (180 to 240): pre-finish smoothing for many wood projects
• Very fine (320 to 600): between coats of finish, scuff sanding, metal prep
• Ultra fine (800 to 3000): polishing, wet sanding, mirror finishes

One rule that saves a ton of time: do not jump too far in grit. If you go from 60 straight to 220, you will be sanding forever trying to remove 60-grit scratches with a fine paper that was never meant to do that job.

Simple version: usually do not skip more than one or two “steps” in a normal progression. Common progressions are 80 → 120 → 180 → 220 or 100 → 150 → 220.

Quick grit cheat sheet

If you only read one section, make it this one. These ranges cover 90 percent of DIY sanding.

Paint note: if you are painting trim, doors, or cabinets with a harder enamel, sanding to 180 to 220 before primer or paint often looks smoother than stopping at 150. If you are rolling wall paint, 150 is usually plenty.

Sandpaper types

Sheets

Great for hand sanding and sanding blocks. Best control for edges and small parts. Most common for wood and drywall touch-ups.

Random orbital discs

Your best friend for large flat areas like tabletops and cabinet sides. Use light pressure and let the sander do the work, or you can leave swirl marks or dish the surface.

Detail sander triangles

For corners, tight spaces, and trim profiles. It is easy to over-sand edges with these, so keep it moving.

Sanding sponges

Perfect for drywall and anything with curves. They conform to the surface and are reusable. They also make it harder to accidentally dig a trench with a corner of paper.

Mesh sanding

Mesh resists clogging and works well with vacuums. For drywall, it is a clean way to sand with fewer dust problems.

Abrasive materials

Not all sandpaper is created equal. The abrasive grain and the backing matter as much as the grit number.

Aluminum oxide

The all-around workhorse for wood and many painted surfaces. It is durable and affordable. If you are buying one kind for general DIY, this is usually it.

Silicon carbide

Sharper and often used for wet sanding, metal, plastics, and between coats. You will see it on many high-grit papers (400+).

Garnet

Common on wood sandpaper sheets. It cuts fast but wears faster. Fine for hand sanding smaller wood projects.

Ceramic

Premium, aggressive, long-lasting. Excellent for heavy stock removal and tough jobs. If you do a lot of sanding, ceramic discs can actually be cheaper over time because they last.

Backing: paper vs cloth vs film

• Paper backing: normal sheets and many discs. Great general use.
• Cloth backing: tougher and more tear-resistant, common in belts and some roll sandpapers.
• Film backing: very consistent grit spacing, often used for fine finishing and automotive-level work.

Clogging control tip: if your paper keeps loading up, you are not alone. A sanding eraser (crepe block) can clean discs and belts, and “open coat” paper helps on resinous woods and old finishes that like to gum up.

Best grits for wood

Wood is where grit choice really shows. The right progression makes stain and clear coat look even. The wrong progression leaves scratch marks that show up the second you apply finish, like a magic trick you did not ask for.

Direction matters: you can sand across the grain early if you are leveling, but for your last one or two grits, finish with the grain so the final scratch pattern blends in.

New lumber or reclaimed wood

• Start: 60 or 80 (if it is truly rough)
• Then: 100 or 120
• Finish: 150 to 180 for paint, 180 to 220 for clear finishes (most projects)

Tip from the jobsite: If you are staining softwood like pine, stop around 180. Going too fine can burnish the surface and make stain absorb unevenly.

Hardwood furniture and tabletops

• Start: 80 (or 100 if it is already smooth)
• Then: 120
• Then: 150 or 180
• Finish: 180 to 220 before stain or clear coat, depending on the species and the look you want

Between coats of polyurethane or clear finish

• Use: 320 or 400 (light pressure)
• Goal: knock down dust nibs and bumps, not remove the finish

Clean the surface before the next coat. Vacuum first, then wipe with a clean microfiber or the cleaner recommended by your finish. Tack cloths can work, but some waterborne finishes and manufacturers do not love them because residue can mess with adhesion, so check the label.

Veneer warning: if you are sanding veneer, treat it like ice on a pond. Start finer (often 120 or 150), use light pressure, and do not chase “one more pass” at the edges.

Best grits for metal

Metal sanding is usually about rust removal, smoothing welds, or prepping for paint. The big difference from wood is that metal clogs paper faster, so quality abrasives and cleaning the paper matter.

Rust removal and paint prep

• Heavy rust or thick flaking paint: 40 to 80
• General prep: 120 to 180
• Before primer: 180 to 220 (or follow the primer label)

Smoothing scratches before paint

• Feather edges: 220
• Refine: 320 to 400

Polishing metal

For polishing, you climb the grit ladder higher, often with wet sanding:

• Start: 400 or 600 (depending on how scratched it is)
• Then: 800, 1000, 1500, 2000
• Finish: polishing compound and a buffing pad

Note: Some metals are better handled with dedicated products like flap discs, wire wheels, or Scotch-Brite style pads. Sandpaper is great, but it is not the only player on the team.

Also: if metal has oily contamination (silicone spray, grease, wax), sanding can just grind it in. Degrease first with the right solvent for the job and follow safety instructions.

Best grits for drywall

Drywall is its own world. You are not trying to make it glassy. You are trying to make it flat. Too coarse and you will shred the paper face. Too fine and you will just polish bumps instead of knocking them down.

Drywall compound sanding

• Typical range: 120 to 150
• For finish pass: 180 to 220 (light touch)

Level 5 note: if you are chasing an ultra-smooth finish (gloss paint, critical lighting, big windows), some pros will go finer than 220 after a skim coat. For normal walls, you usually do not need it.

When to use a sanding sponge

Anytime you are blending edges or sanding inside corners, a sponge gives you forgiveness. It is also great for small touch-ups where dragging out a pole sander feels like overkill.

Dust control that actually works

• Use a shop vac with a drywall sanding attachment if you have it.
• Close doors, cover returns, and run a box fan in a window blowing out.
• Wear a proper dust mask or respirator. Drywall dust is sneaky.

Choose the right grit fast

When you are standing in the aisle staring at 14 nearly identical packs of sandpaper, ask yourself:

• Am I removing material or refining scratches? Removing starts coarse. Refining starts medium or fine.
• What is the surface? Drywall wants 120 to 180. Wood usually finishes 180 to 220. Metal varies widely.
• What is the finish? Glossy finishes show flaws. Plan on higher final grits and between-coat sanding.
• How bad is it? The worse the damage, the lower you start.

Two quick examples: Old paint on trim that is mostly sound usually starts around 120 for a scuff. Thick, gummy varnish or heavy brush marks often needs 80 to level before you move up.

If you are unsure, start one step finer than you think, test in a hidden spot, and only step coarser if it is taking too long. Your project will tell you what it needs.

Common grit progressions

Wood tabletop, decent shape

• 120 → 150 → 180 → 220 (optional)

Wood tabletop, rough or painted

• 80 → 120 → 150 → 180 → 220

Trim before painting

• 120 → 180 (scuff) → primer → 220 (light) → paint

Drywall patch

• 120 or 150 → 180 (light finish pass)

Metal rust cleanup before primer

• 80 → 120 → 180 → 220

When to move up a grit

This is the part most people skip, then blame the finish later.

• Look: The surface should have a consistent scratch pattern from your current grit.
• Feel: Run your fingertips lightly across. You should not feel ridges or sharp transitions.
• Mark it: Lightly scribble pencil marks over the surface, then sand. When the marks disappear evenly, you are flat.

When in doubt, stop, vacuum the dust, and inspect under good light. Dust hides scratches like a blanket hides laundry.

Safety and sanity tips

• Wear eye protection. Sanding throws grit and splinters.
• Protect your lungs. Wood dust and drywall dust are not souvenirs you want to keep.
• Do not press hard with power sanders. Pressure makes heat, swirl marks, and clogged paper.
• Change paper sooner. Dull paper wastes time and can burnish wood.
• Vacuum often. Dust between the pad and the surface can cause random deep scratches.
• Lead paint warning: if you are sanding old paint (especially pre-1978 homes in the U.S.), assume it might be lead until tested. Follow local rules, use proper containment, or hire it out. This is not a “send it” situation.

FAQ

Is higher grit always better?

No. Higher grit is finer, not stronger. If you start too fine, you will spend forever sanding and you may not flatten the surface. Pick grit based on the job, not the vibe.

Can I skip grits?

You can, but keep the jumps reasonable. A good rule is to avoid skipping more than one or two steps in a typical progression. Examples: 80 → 120 → 180 → 220, or 100 → 150 → 220.

Why does my stain look blotchy after sanding?

Often it is uneven sanding, sanding too fine on softwood, or leftover dust. Try stopping at 180 on pine, sanding evenly with the grain for the final passes, and vacuuming thoroughly before staining. A pre-stain conditioner can also help.

What grit should I use between coats of paint?

For most interior paints, 220 to 320 is plenty for a light scuff once the coat is fully dry. You are not trying to remove paint, just knock down dust nibs and texture.

What is wet sanding, and when should I do it?

Wet sanding uses water (or a lubricant) with waterproof paper, usually 600 grit and above, to refine surfaces and reduce clogging. It is common in automotive finishing and high-gloss polishing, less common in everyday wood finishing.

My go-to shopping list

If you want a simple starter kit that covers most home projects, keep these on hand:

• Wood and general sanding: 80, 120, 180, 220 aluminum oxide
• Between coats and fine work: 320 and 400 silicon carbide
• Drywall: 120 or 150 sanding sponges or drywall mesh sheets

And if you take nothing else with you: start coarse enough to do real work, step up gradually, and stop sanding the moment you hit your goal. Your arms will thank you, and your finish will look like you meant it.